Check out the shredding . . .

So Johnny B took us to this secret pirate ship today. We walked the plank to get in and it turned out to be a skate bowl. It was a bit gnarly for me, but John and this other local grom shredded. Check it out . . .

So today was a long day. We woke up early and headed down to Biarritz to surf this right-hander that broke off of a castle. It was really fun, but crazy crowded and actually pretty dangerous. Taj Burrow called to tell us it was pretty fun back in Hossegor, so we headed back up. We found this really good sand bank with a wedgy right. The only problem was there was a fishing tournament going on on the beach and they had it all closed off. I've never seen any sort of shoreline fishing tournament like this, especially of this scale. The waves were too good not to surf, so we jumped the rope, ran past the fishing security and paddled out. Fortunately the tournament didn't last too much longer, so we were in the clear. We ended up getting in one last surf session in before dark later in the evening. Probably surfed eight or nine hours today and capped our day off at my friend Johnny B's sushi place. John and I went to Long Beach state together and he just moved here to Hossegor. The sushi was amazing and it was rad to see him. He's a photo recap of the long day.

The castle spot in Biarritz.

Our ride.

Johnny B. and I.

Best food ever.

France

So I've been here for two days now. This place is amazing. The waves, the food, and the weather are all good. This is what's been going down:

The Germans built these bunkers during world War I.

Now it's a nudist beach.


Ended up finding this peak and shredding.


Later we paddled out at this crowded right-hander.

Getting to France

Such a mission. Over a whole day of traveling. Just got here.

International airplane food.


Christian and his billboard.


Can't wait to surf.

All artsy

I'm leaving for France tomorrow so I went by and picked up some new boards that Stamps had made me. I had to add some color to them and this is how one turned out.

Untouched

Masked

First coat

Done